Scotty, I had asked you before about testing a variable valve solenoid in my vehicle without taking…

Scotty, I had asked you before about testing a variable valve solenoid in my vehicle without taking it out with an ohm meter. It's a 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I got a reading of 0 ohms. I used 2 different meters, one digital and one analog. Both showed 0 ohms. So I went to the auto store and bought one and when I got home I also tested the new one and got 0 ohms. Now my online service manual and the manufactor of the new part both say it should be between 7.6-7.9 ohms across the two connections. I also tested the new one with power to it and it moved and them tested it again for ohms and nothing. I don't want to put in a defective part in my car. The store had got another one in and tested it themselves and got 0 ohms. Then the store claimed to call alot of their other stores and they tested theirs and they all said 0 ohms. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Perhaps you are yezying wrong. But if not get a dealer oem part

I also called the dealer and had their Tech while they put me on hold for about 2 minutes check the Ohms on there part and they came back and said it was 9 ohms. It makes me wonder if they really did anything. According to my service manual it should be 7.6 ohms to 7.9 ohms anything different from that is a bad part.

9 ohms would actually work from my experience, but 0 ohms would not work

So basically it doesn't have to be energized and then after you shut it off check the arms again? Because I had done that already with the one in my vehicle. I feel like the company that makes my part is telling me that they're okay and the store I bought it at doesn't seem like there going to help me either so I feel like I'm stuck in a rock and a hard place and the dealer part is almost twice as much.

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